The Undercover brand is now divided into five lines: Undercover, Undercoverism, Undakovit, Undakovrist and Undakovr, all on sale at the flagship store of Tokyo's trendiest neighborhood. Īfter making his debut on the catwalks of Paris with the PE 03, today Takahashi continues to up the ante. Another element which further clarifies the mindset of the stylist form is his interest for punk provocative musical groups. The Takahashi approach is more complex and particular, and his style has been featured in various "used chic " or "subversive" haute couture.Ĭonsidering the credo of the designer according to which life is both pain and beauty, it is not surprising, that the aesthetics of Undercover, will show you how an anarchist collision between violent and poetic in the same time. In Undercover brand, in fact, riven tissue, torn and mended, perfectly coexist with chiffon, lace and prints with faded floral motifs. Its securety and originality distinguish it from many other young Japanese designers, who are content to try their hand at best with graphic and slogan T-shirt and easily "digestible".
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Moreover the Undercoverism men’s line was created for the fall / winter 2021 collection, a label designed “for men of the next generation who empathize with the” ism “of the Undercover brand”.Founded by the Japanese designer Jun Takahashi in 1994, the Undercover brand today boasts attentive supporters and experts, including Rei Kawakubo, who in 2004 even asked the designer at the time, 34-year old, to draw a series of shirts for the Commes des Garcons shop Tokyo.īorn in Kyru, in 1969 and graduated from Bunka Academy, while studying at college Takahashi begins to create clothes for himself, tired of not being able to find in the stores something he might like. Parallel to the show, in fact, the brand immediately put on sale a selection of limited items from it.
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Pierpaolo Piccioli defined him as “always unpredictable in the short circuits of things, with a cultured way of doing streetwear, which is full of references”.Īfter 19 years of shows in Paris Undercover returned to Japan for the men’s and women’s fashion shows of the fall / winter 2021 collection, due to the pandemic restrictions. It’s a theatrical collection, traveling between past and future. The following year, the Italian fashion house Valentino collaborated with the Japanese brand on the fall-winter 2019/20 collection. The menswear collections represent a turning point for Undercover, with the exception of two special fashion shows set up during Pitti Uomo, the first in 2009 and in January 2018. After the last show in Paris, in fact, only the men’s collections will be exhibited during the fashion week, while women’s wear will be presented exclusively in the showroom. In 2018 Jun Takahashi decided to stop the women’s clothing fashion shows, focusing exclusively on menswear. Titled “Undercover” it contains a preface by Suzy Menkes and over 300 photographs.
In 2016 Takahashi published a book about his creative approach and the history of Undercover published by Rizzoli New York. The designer, who won the Japanese award sponsored by the Mainichi newspaper for the second time after 2001, is the fourth to receive the double awards after Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto.
In 2013 Jun Takahashi received the first prize of the Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix, now at its 31st edition. The Nikelab x Undercover collaboration returned for a second capsule collection in 2015, complete with clothing and shoes. Undercover began the new decade with a collaboration with Nike, interpreting Nike garments for a winter capsule collection. In 2005, Canon asked Takahashi to create a line of limited edition camera cases. The brand UNDERCOVER was established in 1993 by Jun Takahashi while he was still just a student attending Bunka Fashion College. Undercover is a very appreciated brand by international designers such as Miuccia Prada, Rei Kawakubo and by the writer Suzy Menkes, who recently defined Takahashi as “the essence of Japanese cool”. These range among flower bouquets, Kubrick’s A Clockwork Orange, taxidermy and Japanese manga art. Takahashi’s strengths are its ability to interpret street fashion and the suggestions that inspire it. Undercover is a Japanese brand created in 1994 by Jun Takahashi.
UNDERCOVER, JUN TAKAHASHI’S STREET FASHION BRAND
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